band, custom design, design, diamond education, engagement, jewelry education, rings, settings, wedding

Understanding the Anatomy of Engagement & Wedding Rings

Posted on by Diamonds By Monet
23
May

Your guide to settings, styles, and structure—what makes each ring truly one of a kind.

When choosing an engagement or wedding ring, it helps to understand the different parts that make up a ring. From setting styles to head shapes and metal details, each component plays a role in how the ring looks, feels, and functions. Let’s break down the anatomy of a ring and explore the design choices available.

Popular Setting Styles

  • Solitaire
    A timeless choice where the center stone stands alone. The focus is on the diamond itself.

  • Halo
    A circle of smaller diamonds surrounds the center stone, enhancing brilliance and size appearance.

  • Three-Stone
    Symbolizing past, present, and future, this setting features two side stones flanking the center.

  • Pavé
    Tiny diamonds are set closely together into the band, giving the look of continuous sparkle.

  • Bezel
    A modern, protective setting where the center stone is encircled with a thin metal rim.

  • Cathedral
    Features metal arches that lift the center stone, adding height and elegance while securely showcasing the gem.

1. Foundation of the Ring: Shank, Shoulders & Gallery

Shank
The shank is the circular band that wraps around the finger.

  • Half-round: A classic domed top and flat interior.
  • Flat: A sleek, modern profile.
  • Knife-edge: Angled to create a more dimensional look.
  • Split shank: Divides into two or more arms leading up to the center stone for added dimension.
  • Tapered shank: Narrows as it nears the head, drawing the eye toward the center stone.

Shoulders
The top section of the band closest to the center stone.

  • Can be plain, accented with stones, or designed with twisted or split styles.

Gallery
This is the space beneath the center stone when viewed from the side.

  • Gallery rail: The horizontal bar connecting the prongs for stability.
  • Filigree detailing: Ornamental metalwork often found in vintage rings.
  • Hidden halo: A ring of small diamonds placed below the center stone, only visible from the side.

2. The Head: Types, Mounting, and Stone Security

The “head” or “setting” is the part that holds the center stone in place.

  • Peg Head: Attached to the band with a peg; easy to customize or change.

  • Basket Head: Features crossbars beneath the stone, like a woven basket.

  • Trellis Head: Interweaving prongs add beauty and structure.

  • Crown Head: Resembles a royal crown, often used in vintage or ornate designs.

  • Cathedral Mount: The band arches up toward the stone for height and elegance.

3. Prong Styles & Security

Prongs are tiny metal arms that hold the center stone.

  • Standard Prong (4 or 6): Common in most solitaire settings.

  • Double Prong: Offers extra strength and a refined look.

  • V-Prong: Protects the pointed corners of shapes like princess or marquise.

  • Claw Prong: Sharp and angled for a vintage or designer feel.

4. Diamond Setting Techniques

How accent diamonds are placed into the band makes a big difference in both appearance and durability:

  • Pavé
    Tiny diamonds are set closely together with minimal metal.

    • French pavé: V-shaped cuts under each stone for extra sparkle.

    • U-cut pavé: A scooped look from the side, often seen in designer settings.

    • Micro-pavé: Extremely small diamonds set with precision, requiring high craftsmanship.

  • Channel Set
    Diamonds are secured between two metal walls, with no prongs.

  • Bezel Set
    The diamond is surrounded by a thin rim of metal.

    • Full bezel: Encircles the stone completely.

    • Half bezel: Leaves the sides open for more light.

  • Flush Set (Gypsy Set)
    The diamond is sunk into the metal band and sits flush with the surface—clean and modern.

5. Hidden & Decorative Details

  • Hidden Halo
    A circle of diamonds under the center stone that’s only visible from the side. Adds surprise sparkle.

  • Under-gallery Detail
    Engraving, milgrain (beaded edges), or small stones hidden below the setting for a personalized or vintage look.

  • Bridge Accent
    Small stones or engraving placed in the bridge area (where the setting meets the band) for added surprise elements.

  • Stone Orientation
    A round or oval stone can be set:

    • East-West: Horizontally across the finger.

    • North-South: Vertically, the traditional orientation.

6. Wedding Rings: Matching or Standalone

  • Classic Band
    A plain metal band in gold, platinum, or alternative metals like titanium. Timeless and comfortable.

  • Eternity Band
    Features stones (usually diamonds) encircling the entire ring. Symbolizes unending love.

  • Contoured or Curved Bands
    Designed to nest against an engagement ring, especially if it has a large or low-profile center stone.

  • Enhancer or Jacket
    A double-band ring that wraps around the engagement ring for a bold, decorative effect.

7. Metal & Finish Options

  • Metal Types:

    • 14K/18K/22K Gold (white, yellow, rose or mixed metal)

    • Platinum (durable, hypoallergenic)

  • Finishes:

    • High Polish – A mirror-like, ultra-smooth surface with maximum shine.

    • Satin / Matte – Smooth, non-reflective surface that diffuses light.

    • Brushed – A subtle texture created by brushing the metal in a single direction, leaving fine lines.

    • Hammered – Textured, handcrafted feel. Dimpled texture created with a jeweler’s hammer for an artisanal effect.

    • Sandblasted – A rough, granular texture achieved by blasting the metal with abrasive materials.

    • Florentine – Crisscrossing engraved lines forming a fine, etched pattern.

    • Etched or Engraved – Custom patterns or motifs engraved into the surface—like scrolls, florals, or geometric.

Final Thoughts: Details Make the Difference

A ring’s beauty lies in the details—from the subtle sparkle of a hidden halo to the graceful arch of a cathedral setting. Whether you’re selecting a ready-made design or creating something custom, knowing the terminology and options empowers you to make the right choice.

At Diamonds by Monet, we specialize in guiding you through every part of the process—making sure your ring isn’t just stunning, but uniquely yours. Contact us to schedule an appointment to customize your own perfect dream ring!