Choosing the Perfect Ring Setting

Like the perfect frame for a beautiful painting, the perfect ring setting will complement and enhance a beautiful diamond or gemstone while also expressing your individual style and character.

If you’ve ever seen an optical illusion, you know surroundings can affect appearances. Even the moon seems to grow when it’s closer to the horizon (fittingly named the “moon illusion”). Diamonds size, sparkle and color are all enhanced in subtle ways by the shapes and colors of the ring setting.

We’ve put together this guide to popular ring settings to help you choose the one that best accentuates your diamond, expresses your personality and suits your lifestyle.

CENTER STONE SETTINGS

Each of these settings is designed to secure an individual stone, most often the centerpiece of the ring.

PRONG SETTING

Ask anyone to picture a diamond ring, and chances are high they’ll see a prong-set diamond. It’s a classic setting that’s birthed a wide catalog of variations to appeal to several styles, and it’s a newer design than many realize. In an era when ornate, “heavy” designs were the fashion, Charles Lewis Tiffany (of Tiffany & Co. fame) sought a way to showcase diamonds by setting them higher on the ring and exposing more diamond to the light. The result was a head with 6 metal posts securing the diamond high above the band.

Introduced in 1886, Tiffany’s prong setting worked so well that it remains the most popular choice today, especially for solitaires. Common variants include 3- and 4-prong settings, as well as the “basket” design that reinforces the prongs with metal rings. The latter is one way to offset the biggest concern for prong settings: more exposed diamond leaves it susceptible to chipping, and the prongs themselves may be worn or damaged over time. Regular checks are important to ensure your diamond remains secure as time passes.

Like the prong setting but want a little different twist? Consider a trellis setting: four interweaving prongs that cross the center stone, evoking the garden piece for which they’re named. The trellis surrounds more of the diamond than the classic prong setting, which can obscure a high-quality stone but can also make a small diamond seem larger. For smaller stones there’s the illusion setting, which surrounds the prong-set stone with fluted (curved) metal that reflects the diamond, giving the “illusion” of size.

If you were a bride-to-be in the early-to-mid 19^th century, it’s likely you wore a bezel-set diamond in a filigreed or decorative band.  The setting of choice for many jewelers during the Victorian era, the bezel encircles a gemstone with a thin metal rim up to the girdle (the edge around the stone’s circumference).

BEZEL SETTING

The bezel setting is on the rise for its versatility and durability. Diamonds with lower cut grades won’t appear as bright in a bezel vs. a prong setting (a well-cut diamond won’t be affected, as it reflects light back to the viewer through the top of the stone) but will be less likely to chip or fall out. White metal bezels can lend extra width to a small diamond, and a bezel-set stone high above the band might seem larger, as though “filling out” the bezel rather than coming to a point.

The partial bezel setting is an option if you like the look of a bezel, but would like more of the diamond to be visible. In place of a complete circle, two arcs of metal support the stone, allowing light to pass through the uncovered sides.

TENSION SETTING

If you’d like a peek at what style possibilities are emerging with new techniques and technologies, look no further than the tension setting in its many forms. Formally introduced in 1979, the tension-set diamond will appear suspended in midair, floating within the band. What seems like a tenuous arrangement is in fact one of the more secure settings. Immense pressure—typically close to 12,000 pounds per square inch—clamps the stone in place between open ends of the ring, aided by precisely cut grooves in the metal. With no prongs or other metal to hold the gemstone in place, more stone is exposed to light and viewers.

A tension setting is a bold choice if you’re seeking a unique, modern look, with one significant drawback: tension-set rings are extremely difficult and costly to resize. If the design appeals to you but resizing is likely to be an issue, consider a faux tension setting. These have a similar aesthetic to a tension-set ring, but secure the diamond by means of a bezel or bar instead of sheer pressure.

BAR SETTING

Another option for ring shoppers looking for a clean, contemporary feel, the bar setting is the close cousin to the channel setting, described below.  In this setting the stone is held in place by two metal bars on either side, which when paired with a round brilliant cut provides an intriguing shape contrast.   The bars provide a measure of protection while allowing light through the exposed sides, similar in effect to a partial bezel.

You’ll likely see this setting used for multiple stones, but don’t discount its appeal for a center stone: the distinctive, clean look easily stands on its own as a conversation piece and complements a modern style.

CATHEDRAL SETTING

With a lofty label recalling the high-vaulted cathedrals of the past, the cathedral setting is less a center stone setting than a feature of the band, and can be used with any of the settings described above for a stunning all-around look.  You’ll recognize these rings by the sweeping arches in the band that rise to meet the center stone, leaving an open window in the ring profile.

The result is a stunning design that leads the eye to the center stone, but also emphasizes the ring as a complete piece.  Note that larger stones can appear to “compete” with a cathedral setting, especially when accented.  A small or medium diamond, meanwhile, can benefit from the higher elevation and size-enhancing effect that characterizes the cathedral.

ACCENT STONE SETTINGS

Here you’ll find a diverse array of ring settings with one common thread: each is designed for multiple stones, typically used to accent a center but (with the exception of the halo) also able to stand alone as a complete piece. Smaller parts mean you’ll want to check these rings regularly for loose stones; you may also want to consider the potential difficulty of cleaning and resizing.  With care, though, each of the following can lend a distinct beauty and personality to your ring.

HALO SETTING

The halo may be the prime example of a ring setting forming a beautiful frame to complement a centerpiece.  Which, along with the many size, shape, and stone variations to choose from, may be why the halo setting falls just behind the classic prong in popularity.

A center stone tightly surrounded by many smaller stones not only makes the center appear larger, but also adds sparkle through its interplay of reflections. For a little different twist on the classic theme, consider a pear, marquise, or cushion cut center, or choose a halo of colored gemstones surrounding a diamond or other gemstone.

CLUSTER SETTING

If the halo is a showpiece with a beautiful frame, a cluster setting is a sparkling mosaic of many small stones.  The cluster is similar in effect to a halo, giving the appearance of a single large diamond, but lacks a center stone; instead, the cluster itself is the star attraction.  This can be a cost-effective option for a smaller budget, as a large diamond will demand higher prices than an equal-weight cluster of small diamonds due to rarity.

Options for cluster settings are nearly limitless, with classic round and rectangle shapes appearing alongside heart, starburst, pinwheel, and other configurations.

PAVÉ SETTING

Like a cobbled pathway sparkling after the rain, the pavé setting takes its name from the French for “paved”, and indeed captures the look of paving stones along a roadway. To create the smooth surface of a pavé ring, tiny diamonds (considered micro-pavé below 0.01-0.02 ct) are set into the ring and held in place by tiny prongs, or “beads”. When finished, pavé accents add a sparkle to the entire piece. A dazzling choice for anyone looking to showcase the whole ring, with or without a center stone.

 

CHANNEL SETTING

Both the name and look of this setting evoke a clean stream of flowing water.  A row of diamonds or gemstones are set into the band and secured by its sides, without the need for prongs. Round stones, in a striking contrast of curves and lines, give an art deco feel when set within the metal walls of a channel.

Set at or below the ring’s surface, a channel is a strong choice if you’re looking to complement a center diamond with accent stones while keeping your center stone the main attraction.

SHARED PRONG SETTING

The shared prong is a popular setting for eternity and wedding bands, or any ring with larger accent stones.  To reduce the amount of metal used and allow more light to pass, each pair of prongs is used to secure back-to-back stones, so that each prong is shared between two stones.  A strong choice if you’re looking for a multi-diamond band that highlights each individual stone.

FLUSH SETTING

The closest thing to capturing a star-dotted sky on the surface of a ring, the flush or gypsy setting seats the diamond into the band, even with its surface, with only the table (top surface) visible.  The appearance is similar to a bezel, without the elevated metal rim.  Due to the amount of diamond hidden the setting is most often used with smaller accents, and is an ideal choice of accent setting for anyone with an active lifestyle who wants a secure ring with an extra sparkle.  With the stones seated into the band, many unique configurations are possible, and indeed many rings with flush accents resemble stars dotted against an evening sky.

INVISIBLE SETTING

Not to be confused with the illusion setting, used to magnify the size of a center diamond, the invisible setting combines many small stones cut to fit into grooves in the ring, and often are notched to fit together like puzzle pieces for extra security. To the observer, nothing appears to be holding the individual stones in place – the fastening is, seemingly, invisible. Choosing an invisible set ring will give you a unique conversation piece that can seem as though though the entire ring is one continuous stone. Take extra care with this setting, as stones unsecured by prongs are more likely to loosen and can be difficult to replace.

 

When shopping for your ring, don’t be afraid to stray from the “classic” looks if you’re drawn to a lesser-known design. Likewise, don’t be deterred from choosing a popular style for fear of shifting trends. Whether you choose one or more settings we’ve described or another of the many types available, the perfect ring is one that expresses you and your personal style, and that will never go out of fashion!